Papel Transferencia para diseñar circuitos impresos

10x A4 HEAT TONER TRANSFER PAPER PCB DIY PAPEL TRANSFERENCIA TERMICA PCB COBRE

Clean copper clad board that you're transferring the circuit to, The cleaner the PCB the better the toner will transfer and grip to it resulting in a better final PCB.

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Clean copper clad board that you're transferring the circuit to, The cleaner the PCB the better the toner will transfer and grip to it resulting in a better final PCB.
If you can't get a nice copper polish, then consider using fine (800 grit) sand paper, steel wool (I personally use fine sand paper, metholated spirits and then wash it all off and dry with a paper towel.

Print the MIRROR artwork on the shinny side of transfer paper. 

Set the iron to 'Linen' or as high as the iron will go. We need a fairly hot iron because we're going to be forcing the toner to remelt and subsequently bond to the copper blank PCB.

If you can, preheat the PCB, using a heatgun can achieve this quite well. A preheated PCB contributes to a better transfer at times (for small circuits/boards there often isn't a noticable difference). 

Turn the paper with the PCB pattern over and lay it face down onto the blank PCB (that's why should print the artwork as MIRROR). 

The critical part...

Apply the hot iron down onto the paper and PCB, pressing them both flat and putting them under pressure. Do not move the iron around. Leave the iron to rest on the paper for about 10 seconds. Reduce the pressure a little bit and slide the iron left/right, up/down a few times. Do not swivel/twist the iron on the paper, this will result in the paper most likely shifting and ruining your work. If the paper does shift then all you can do is scrub the board back, print a new copy and start again.

DO NOT LIFT THE PAPER 

Waiting for the PCB temperature cool down to the temperature that you filling not hot or room temp.
After the temperature of PCB cooling down, you can remove the transfer paper easy, the toner on the paper should be transfered to the PCB mostly(Average of 99.8%), for the area that toner missing on the board, use the oil pen to patch that. 

Congratulations, you're done. The PCB is now ready to be etched how ever you prefer. You can store your boards for as long as you like without having to worry about the toner degrading. This is very useful if you want to wait to do everything as a single large etch batch.

ATTENTION: Using a laser printer! Can not use an inkjet printer.

10x A4 HEAT TONER TRANSFER PAPER PCB DIY PAPEL TRANSFERENCIA TERMICA PCB COBRE <p><strong><span style="font-size:10pt;"><iframe src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/wKEe3otWstM" width="425" height="350" frameborder="0"></iframe><br /></span></strong></p> <p><strong><span style="font-size:10pt;">Clean copper clad board that you're transferring the circuit to, The cleaner the PCB the better the toner will transfer and grip to it resulting in a better final PCB.</span></strong><br /><strong><span style="font-size:10pt;">If you can't get a nice copper polish, then consider using fine (800 grit) sand paper, steel wool (I personally use fine sand paper, metholated spirits and then wash it all off and dry with a paper towel.</span></strong></p> <p><strong><span style="font-size:10pt;">Print the MIRROR artwork on the shinny side of transfer paper. </span></strong></p> <p><strong><span style="font-size:10pt;">Set the iron to 'Linen' or as high as the iron will go. We need a fairly hot iron because we're going to be forcing the toner to remelt and subsequently bond to the copper blank PCB.</span></strong></p> <p><strong><span style="font-size:10pt;">If you can, preheat the PCB, using a heatgun can achieve this quite well. A preheated PCB contributes to a better transfer at times (for small circuits/boards there often isn't a noticable difference). </span></strong></p> <p><strong><span style="font-size:10pt;">Turn the paper with the PCB pattern over and lay it face down onto the blank PCB (that's why should print the artwork as MIRROR). </span></strong></p> <p><strong><span style="font-size:10pt;">The critical part...</span></strong></p> <p><strong><span style="font-size:10pt;">Apply the hot iron down onto the paper and PCB, pressing them both flat and putting them under pressure. Do not move the iron around. Leave the iron to rest on the paper for about 10 seconds. Reduce the pressure a little bit and slide the iron left/right, up/down a few times. Do not swivel/twist the iron on the paper, this will result in the paper most likely shifting and ruining your work. If the paper does shift then all you can do is scrub the board back, print a new copy and start again.</span></strong></p> <p><strong><span style="font-size:10pt;">DO NOT LIFT THE PAPER </span></strong></p> <p><strong><span style="font-size:10pt;">Waiting for the PCB temperature cool down to the temperature that you filling not hot or room temp.</span></strong><br /><strong><span style="font-size:10pt;">After the temperature of PCB cooling down, you can remove the transfer paper easy, the toner on the paper should be transfered to the PCB mostly(Average of 99.8%), for the area that toner missing on the board, use the oil pen to patch that. </span></strong></p> <p><strong><span style="font-size:10pt;">Congratulations, you're done. The PCB is now ready to be etched how ever you prefer. You can store your boards for as long as you like without having to worry about the toner degrading. This is very useful if you want to wait to do everything as a single large etch batch.</span></strong></p> <p align="center"><strong><span style="color:#ff0000;font-size:10pt;">ATTENTION: Using a laser printer! Can not use an inkjet printer.</span></strong></p>
4,50 €